my favourite runway collections (2023 edition)
recent top 5, just in time for fashion weeks around the world!
song to listen to while reading: les by childish gambino
In this piece, I have included 5 different recent collections I love in terms of creative direction, themes, and overall looks. I tried to include companies or designers that don’t immediately come to mind (ex: no Dior, Chanel, Versace, Prada, Gucci, or Balenciaga here!) The focus on brands with POC directors or backgrounds also shows that the fashion world is changing and diversifying, which I am so glad to be witnessing.
A special thank you to all who bore with me while I took a little break, I have something very special planned coming soon :)
Collection IV - Mirror Palais SS23 - New York Fashion Week
@mirrorpalais
Creative director Marcelo Gaia never disappoints with the fantastical and romantic designs Mirror Palais is known for. Their debut NYFW runway collection this past fall showcased sheer fabrics and metallic accents, creating dreamy, whimsical looks perfect for any it-girl Pinterest moodboard. Drawing inspiration from his native Brazil and being born and raised in New York, Gaia’s pieces perfectly blend modernity and nostalgia.
All looks here: Mirror Palais SS23 Lookbook
Simone Rocha FW23 - London Fashion Week
@simonerocha_
Ribbons, bows, lace, and leather galore! Irish-Chinese designer Simone Rocha brings back elements and motifs from past designs and elevates them to the next level for her recent FW23 collection. Doll-like makeup and hair contribute to the overall magical darkness of her creations, à la Margaret Keane and Mark Ryden meets Victorian-era child. The inclusion of models regardless of age, race, or gender makes this menswear debut a hit on my list.
All looks here: Simone Rocha FW23 Lookbook
Carte Blanche - Iris van Herpen SS23 - Paris Fashion Week
@irisvanherpen
Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen is known for her sci-fi renditions that draw parallels to aliens, tropical fish, and tribal tattoos. Her most recent collection, titled Carte Blanche, transcends any stereotypes you might associate with designers or the fashion industry, as it was captured in and underwater. Using divers and specialized film cameras, van Herpen’s pieces somehow shine brighter in an otherworldly, aqua setting than they do on land.
All looks here: Iris van Herpen SS23 Lookbook
Burning Heroine - Blumarine FW23 - Milan Fashion Week
@blumarine
I’ve been a fan of Blumarine for a while, and creative director Nicola Brognano stays true to the Blumarine name by combining early Y2K influences with contemporary silhouettes. A giant, flaming B logo in the background contributes to the Hunger Games-esque, grunge medieval atmosphere. The versatility of Blumarine showcases a different aspect of the early 2000s and 90s in each collection, while also making the pieces wearable (I’m looking at you Viktor and Rolf upside-down dress). For this reason, this assembly of looks stands beyond fashion week.
All looks here: Blumarine FW23 Lookbook
A Golden Dawn - Elie Saab SS23 - Paris Haute Couture Week
@eliesaabworld
Elie Saab, a Lebanese fashion designer, is known for his grand couture gowns and embellishment, and his most recent collection is about as magnificent as you can get. Intricate embroidery, iridescent appliqué and crystalized neutral and metallic tones all come together, producing pieces that an ancient goddess would fawn over. Suits also are prevalent in this collection, blinged out to the brim. Inspired by Thailand, the use of flowy, delicate fabrics contrasts beautifully with complex ornamentation. Absolutely stunning.
All looks here: Elie Saab SS23 Lookbook